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 LeRoy Grannis One of the Original Surf Photographers
LeRoy (Granny) Grannis has been both a surfer and photographer since before the use of fiberglass and plastic foam in surfboards. LeRoy entered the rank of professional photographers in 1959, when his pictures appeared in the first surf magazines. LeRoy was also co-editor of International Surfing which first appeared in December 1964. LeRoy always insists on top quality pictures and states that there is always room for any photographer who does top quality work. Grannis says, "Knowing surfing makes a good surf photographer, and here's why. I've seen good professional photographers arrive at the beach with the best equipment money can buy, but they didn't know anything about surfing. They would shoot dozens of rolls of him, but they couldn't come up with as good shots as those who were actually surfers!"
LeRoy likes to give credit for his success in photography to "Doc" Ball, the man who pioneered surf pictures. Doc is one of LeRoy’ s best friends. He remembers Doc paddling out at Paddleboard Cove, Palos Verdes, with a brass and wood box housing an old-fashioned press camera. He had to open a trap door in front to take the picture, then quickly snap the door closed to keep out the water. LeRoy chuckled as he remembered that Doc had such a slow shutter speed that he would have to lead the surf-riders like a duck hunter - if he didn't, the surfers would be beyond him and out of focus before he could stop the action.
LeRoy suggests to take good pictures you need to have a good surfing background, have good equipment, use the largest size of film possible, shoot from the water when possible, watch lighting conditions (don't shoot in the late afternoon on the West Coast), buy used equipment to save money, and develop your own film to insure quality photographs.
Surfing still retains its mystical qualities for Granny as he surfs Tamarack Beach a few days a week, usually about 8 a.m. Granny says, "I'll keep surfing as long as I can, that's for sure!" At age 75, Granny said "I still enjoy surfing. I'll be driving by the beach, and I'll get this feeling of anticipation. Sometimes I'll have to stop myself from pulling over and heading in!"
(Excerpted from Surfer Magazine and Surfing Illustrated)
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